Glenn Martens Reimagines Diesel for FW26
A Forensic Fantasy on the Milan Runway
This season, Diesel’s Fall/Winter 2026 runway was transformed into an immersive forensic tableau, chronicling five decades of unapologetic hedonism. Under the fearless creative direction of Glenn Martens, the brand embraced the enigmatic allure of the aftermath—presenting a wardrobe for those who greet the morning in unfamiliar hotel rooms, yet manage to look impossibly luminous.
The Archive as Living Installation
Martens plunged deep into Diesel’s storied archive, staging the collection against an awe-inspiring installation of 50,000 historic garments. This monumental display served as both a tribute to Diesel’s rich heritage and a provocative playground for Martens’ disruptive vision. The collection thrived on the tension of the “intentionally wrong”: denim stiffened with resin to freeze in creases, evoking clothes worn far beyond a single night; jersey tops layered with calculated nonchalance; and exuberant “monster” coats, patchworked together in a riot of colors and textures.
Innovation in Silhouette and Detail
Exaggeration Meets Effortless Cool
Silhouettes took on new proportions, as Martens continued his exploration of exaggerated forms. Sweeping, oversized knits appeared artfully wrinkled, offering a languid, lived-in appeal. Utilitarian details abounded—most notably, pockets at trouser hems, which brushed against shoes with insouciant practicality, lending the collection a rebellious sense of function.
Accessories That Command Attention
The debut of the D-One bag captivated accessories devotees: its innovative handles unravel into cascades of multi-buckled straps, rendered in everything from supple leather to crystal-studded denim. Footwear, too, made a statement—pumps and boots were sculpted with bold, fortified silhouettes, amplifying their presence. Marking a new chapter, Diesel introduced the “Closer” watch, the brand’s first unisex timepiece, blending technical sophistication with a jewelry-inspired aesthetic.
Conscious Craftsmanship
Sustainability at the Core
Sustainability emerged as a defining theme, with “responsible” denim and upcycled fabrics underscoring Diesel’s commitment to both innovation and environmental stewardship. This thoughtful approach paid homage to the brand’s 1978 origins, reinforcing a vision where daring creativity coexists with a dedication to conscious craftsmanship.
For more from the FW26 runways, explore our London Fashion Week recap. Discover the full gallery at Hypebae.
