Andreas Kronthaler Reclaims The Rhythm For Vivienne Westwood FW26

A Legacy Reimagined

Andreas Kronthaler’s vision for Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2026, “Catch the Rhythm,” is a stirring affirmation of the house’s rebellious DNA. Presented at Paris Fashion Week, the collection unfolded as a deeply personal reverie—rooted in Kronthaler’s Austrian heritage but unmistakably charged with the punk-infused irreverence that is Westwood’s calling card. The front row radiated this spirit of defiance, with artists Lola Young and Chappell Roan—unapologetically bold and fiercely individual—embodying the ethos Dame Vivienne championed throughout her trailblazing career.

Cinematic Allusions and Historical Reverberations

Kronthaler’s narrative for the season is sculpted around three conceptual pillars. The first draws on the cinematic allure of Austrian screen legend Romy Schneider, whose enigmatic glamour permeates the collection’s mood. Layered atop this is the influence of Italian costume maestro Danilo Donati, specifically his work for Pier Paolo Pasolini’s “The Canterbury Tales.” Through Donati’s lens, Kronthaler channels Chaucerian themes of desire and subversion, crafting garments that are both steeped in history and acutely attuned to contemporary sensibilities. The interplay of these references yields a collection that is at once nostalgic and defiantly modern.

Fluidity, Sensuality, and Tension

This season, technical ingenuity takes center stage: silhouettes privilege movement and organic drape over rigid construction. Dresses flow with open seams and languid, intentional folds, echoing the freedom of the body beneath. Smock dresses are adorned with streaming ribbons, while flashes of eroticism surface via garter belts, stockings, and exposed bras—sensual elements tempered by playful “hard candy” embellishments and whimsical Cupid-motif knits. The juxtaposition of tactile ornamentation with sharply padded shoulders creates a dynamic tension, oscillating between armor-like strength and unguarded vulnerability—blurring the traditional boundaries of femininity and power.

An Immersive Homage to the Westwood Spirit

The show’s impact transcended its visual language, enveloping guests in a multisensory experience. An original soundtrack by Boy George and Kinky Roland pulsed through the venue, underscoring the house’s enduring ties to London’s subversive musical currents. As the finale crescendoed, the refrain—“I was dressed head to toe in Vivienne Westwood”—reverberated through the space. It was a fitting testament to a collection that both honors a storied past and asserts a fearless vision for the future of the house.