The Comeback of Military Jackets
The structured military jacket, once a staple of The Libertines’ iconic look, has made a striking return on the SS26 catwalks. This resurgence evokes a sense of nostalgia reminiscent of the Indie Sleaze era, particularly the early 2000s. But before it became a fashion statement for icons like Kate Moss and Pete Doherty, this style was originally associated with European colonizers. So, what accounts for its revival in today’s fashion landscape?
A Nod to the Past
In a recent video posted on the indie sleaze Instagram account @antipublicbar, we are transported back to 2007, where a slightly tipsy Moss and Doherty can be seen enjoying a singalong while donned in guardsmen’s uniforms. Moss, notably, sports a giant Union Jack, a symbol that has since taken on more complex connotations amid rising far-right sentiment. While these historical nuances linger, the jackets themselves—characterized by frocking and shiny gold buttons—are experiencing a renaissance. High-fashion designers like Alexander McQueen and Ann Demeulemeester have showcased similar military-inspired pieces on their runways.
Celebrity Endorsements
Celebrities are embracing this military trend as well. Jenna Ortega turned heads at the Dior show in September, while Greta Lee appeared in a contemporary version of Napoleon Bonaparte’s coat, also from Dior. At Aaron Esh’s SS26 show, a group of Post Party kids sported Hussar-themed jackets, adding a youthful twist to the classic style. Laura Andraschko also contributed to the trend, presenting a cropped velvet military jacket that captured attention.
Navigating Cultural Sensitivities
As the Union Jack re-emerges in fashion, it’s important to acknowledge its complicated legacy. While it was once a symbol of national pride for artists like Corbin Shaw and designers such as Galliano and Westwood, the military jacket trend invites deeper reflection. These garments, often romanticized in fashion, have roots in the colonial military forces of the 19th century. European armies, including the British in India and the Caribbean, the French in Africa, and the Russians in Central Asia, wore these jackets during a time of significant oppression and exploitation.
A Historical Perspective
Professor Andrew Groves, Director of Westminster’s Menswear Archive, emphasizes the need for context when considering these jackets. “Fashion treats [these jackets] as mere style requirements,” he states, urging a more nuanced understanding of their implications. As we embrace the aesthetics of the past, it’s crucial to recognize the history that lies beneath the surface. The allure of military jackets might be strong, but they carry a narrative that challenges us to think critically about their place in contemporary fashion.
Source inspired by international fashion publications. Adapted & edited for Maverick.
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